Costa Rican Rainforests at La Selva

 Earlier this month I took a week off of work and spent it exploring Costa Rica. This was my first time out of the country by myself, and after a nightmare in Tulum over 4th of July (a blogpost I am very late on) I was extremely nervous. On top of that, I booked this trip the delta variant got bad, so being that added to nerves. Fortunately, I had nothing to stress about. Costa Rica's biodiversity is off the charts, and early on their government decided to prioritize protecting the country's natural resources and promoting ecotourism. There were no issues at all, even when you account for arranging a Covid test on short notice!

Blue-Gray Tanager

One issue I have when birding is a desire to see everything. I tend to not spend enough time in one place, and as a result I am prone to getting tired and losing focus. It's vacation after all, and I wanted to slow down the pace and enjoy the experience. Instead of driving from one end of the country to another, I opted to pick two places that I knew would have minimal overlap in bird species and habitat and take it slow.

Sloth

The first place I went was the La Selva Biological Station in the Caribbean rainforest in Sarapiqui. This is primarily a research facility full of primary forest, and not many tourists come here. Toucans, tanagers, and all sorts of incredible lowland birds are found here. Labor Day is also the perfect time to go, as there is a slight break in the wet season around this time.

Black-cheeked Woodpecker

The sun starts coming up at 5:30 in the morning, and I was sunscreened up and ready to rock. I wore more clothing at La Selva than I did in Alaska. I'm not trying to get sunburned or eaten alive by mosquitos (the latter of which was nowhere near as bad as I feared). After arriving close to midnight I didn't see anything when I got there, but the sunrise illuminated a stunning rainforest around me. It was time to see some birds!

Scarlet-rumped Tanager

Walking through the garden on my way to the bridge I was floored by the array of gorgeous birds casually hanging out in the busiest part of the station. Violet-headed Hummingbird and Green Honeycreeper were right here in front of me! Amazed, I looked up and saw the bird that drew me to Central America: Golden-hooded Tanager. I had no plans of coming to Costa Rica until I bought Vallely and Dyer's "Birds of Central America" in January. I primarily got it to learn how to identify vagrants to the US, but instead a whole new world opened up, with the star of the show being Golden-hooded Tanager. I desperately wanted to see one, and I had one within 10 minutes of starting out. This was a good omen. 

Golden-hooded Tanager

A large bridge connects the two section of the station over the Puerto Viejo River, and my mind exploded as I soaked in the view. The quiet water rushed by 50 feet below me and I realized how advantageous this was. I was high up, and tops of the trees around me were closer to eye level. Good thing I was up there when I was because a Rufous-tailed Jacamar made a brief appearance.

Pale-billed Woodpecker

As I got my bearings before breakfast I would quickly realize why the rainforest gets so much hype. Birds were everywhere. A Variable Seedeater here, a Blue-gray Tanager there, and...YELLOW-THROATED TOUCAN! Way up in the trees, in perfect light, was a bird that even non-birders go crazy for. Not to be a hippie, but as I admired the toucan I noticed I stopped sweating, I forgot about how far from home I was, and I felt this rush of a high that I have only felt when exploring and experiencing nature at its finest, like at Eeilson in Denali, or at Boot Canyon in Big Bend. All while this is going on, Great Green Macaws (which I only heard, but did not see) were squaking and this absurdly loud, unknown grunt echoed through the trees

Yellow-throated Toucan

.I tend to be very anti-guide. I like to find my own birds, and I think some people overly rely on them. But I did have a guide at La Selva who took me around and taught me all sorts of things about the rainforest. He showed me things I never would have seen, like small group of Honduran White Bats that make their roosts by making banana leaves into a tent. After my experience, I now think everyone should hire a guide on the first day in a new place just to learn more about the environment they're in and to learn the subtle differences between what they're looking at, birds and other animals included. Over the next day and a half I was able to self find pretty much every bird we saw in different locations on the trails.

Orange-chinned Parakeet

What is truly mindblowing was the beauty of the most common birds. Scarlet-rumped Tanagers were everywhere, but looking away felt like a crime. You also couldn't really look away, because they were good indicators that a flock was nearby. I'd heard of mixed flocks before, but to experience one is different beast. I took a seat by a building on my second afternoon near a small clearing, and common birds turned into uncommon sights at every level. Eye-ringed Flatbills perched in the trees with Cinnamon Becards. A Pale-billed Woodpecker silently scooted up the trunk. A Squirrel Cuckoo, which I only had a fleeting glimpse of the day before hung out at the top of a small tree. There were at least 30 species of birds all around me, and I got to follow them as they moved to the trees over the river. That bridge gave me a massive advantage. Here I was, eye level with a Slaty-tailed Trogon and Black-faced Grosbeak. A bird pooped on my head, I didn't even miss a beat. Blue, green, and red birds darted everywhere around me. I almost passed out from excitement. 

Slaty-tailed Trogon

But mixed flocks aren't the only places to see birds. Buff-rumped Warblers guided me down a path near a fast flowing creek that covered up the noise of my footfalls perfectly. Crested Guans in the treetops kept my presence a secret from a pair of Great Curassows on the ground, another tropical bird that shouldn't exist but somehow does. As I entered a botanical study area I got an excellent view of Collared Aracaris, a member of the toucan family that I think may be cooler than toucans themselves. Black-throated and Gartered Trogons were also present, can't believe I'm mentioning those birds as afterthought.

Black-headed Trogon

There is a small marsh that can be quite productive as well, with minimal mosquitos. Green Ibises were lounging in the trees, but it was the Russet-naped Wood-rail that stole the show. Secretive and hard to see, any chance I get at seeing a rail is an opportunity worth seizing. 

Collared Aracari

The birds did not want me to leave and did everything they could to get me to stay. I spent my last morning seeking out any bird I could get, and I got to spend it doing something I always wanted to do: observing parrots. A flock of White-crowned Parrots foraged in a tree above me with a clear view, forcing me to choose between admiring them and a swimming otter below me. Montezuma Oropendolas called out to me as I crossed the bridge one last time, and unfortunately I had to get in the van to go to Savegre.

White-crowned Parrot

I know this is a long post, but this is the pared version. I'm leaving off incredible sightings of Black Hawk-eagle, Snowy Cotinga, Bay Wren, Orange-chinned Parakeet, Blue Dacnis, Cocoa Woodcreeper and so many other species that deserve more than a brief mention. And that's just the birds. Howler Monkeys were everywhere, hanging by their tails. Wild monkeys, you couldn't take your eyes off of them, or miss their echoing howls. An Emerald Basilisk brought me screeching to a halt, and Bullet Ants, supposedly the animal with the most painful bite on earth, kept me eyeing any rail I touched. Caimans patrolled the river underneath the bridge.  And of course, a sloth made me weak in the knees.

Howler Monkey hanging by its tail

Both nights after the afternoon rain I'd walk on the bridge and watch the sunset. The rising fog, cool air, and pink sky of the rainforest was one of the most beautiful sights I'll ever see. I observed 83 species of birds, countless other animals, and was probably seen by at least a few poisonous snakes in the span of 2 days. La Selva was the best way to dive headfirst into a birding trip in Central America, but there was still more to come!

Sunset on the Puerto Viejo River

SE Arizona Part III

The sun going down did not mean my day was over. I drove to Madera Canyon in the Santa Rita mountains in the dark, expecting to have an easy drive. Google maps decided it wanted me to take the dirt road option. The road was pretty easy to drive, but it's way more stressful at night than it is during the day. I couldn't see how far down the drops were, and all I could hope for was that a deer didn't run into the road.

The Santa Ritas in the sunset

But I was in the Santa Rita Mountains, quite possibly the most unique mountain range in the United States. There was a wild feeling to it, and I was feeling electric. This was one of the first known haunts of El Jefe, one of the only jaguars to have a home range in the United States, although his whereabouts are unknown to the public. The topic of jaguars in the United States is the most fascinating thing for me, and it's what initially drew me to wanting to visit this area. Another jaguar has been photographed in the Chiricahuas as recently as February, and I suspect it won't be long before they start breeding in the United States, if they haven't already (that's a conspiracy theory for another day). 

Western Tanager

While I did not see a jaguar that night, I did see tons of Lesser Nighthawks and Common Poorwills on the road. The Santa Ritas have mountain lions and bears in addition to jaguars and maybe Ocelots, but they also have spectacular night birding. I stopped at various places to listen, and even got out of my car at a picnic area but something felt off. The sky was illuminated by some of the best stars I've ever seen, but the area seemed pitch black. I really wanted Whiskered Screech-owl, and as I walked stood in the picnic area it felt like something was watching me. I turned on my headlamp to see two eyes, but it was only a Gray Fox. Still, it was spooky enough to send me to the car.

The best phone picture I could hope for

After checking in I went to the Mount Wrightson Picnic Area to try for other night birds with the intention of walking around. The first animal I saw as I drove up there was a White-nosed Coatimundi. Coatis can be found throughout southern Arizona and resemble a weird looking raccoon. Awesome animals. As I neared the parking lot I was stopped in my tracks by a sow Black Bear and two little cubs in the road. Slack jawed, I watched the family mosey up the road before disappearing in the woods. In that moment I decided not to get out of my car. Mexican Whip-poor-wills were calling and peacefully putting me to sleep. After an hour I had to go back and pass out, I had a big day coming up.

Bridled Titmouse

Today was the big day for Elegant Trogon. Charlie Tran, a friend of the blog since the A&M days joined me up the Carrie Nation Trail. First of all, what a hike. You'll gain elevation, but it's not bad at all. Bridled Titmice greeted us on the trail, which was relieving since I did not want to miss that. Painted Redstart and Red-faced Warbler were common, and we had a pair of Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers. 

Varied Bunting

We also heard 3 Elegant Trogons. Their barking call is distinct and we hiked off trail to try to see it, narrowly missing it. We were within feet of it and it undoubtedly saw us. I was crushed to miss it, but the hike and the company more than made up for the miss. I suspect that maybe getting on the trail before sunrise would have netted us the bird. The drought has also been really hard on Madera Canyon, which I think impacted our chances. Hopefully the monsoon season hits the Santa Ritas hard. 

Blue Grosbeak

The afternoon was pretty hot so I knew birding would slow down big time. I looked for Five-striped Sparrow along the road I drove in on without luck. In a perfect world I would have had another morning to stake this out, but it was hot and I am not a big stakeout person. My final place of interest was a corral a wash in lower Florida Canyon. The water tank is an oasis of birds, and there was a smattering of color. Varied Bunting, Western Tanager, Summer Tanager, and Blue Grosbeak were everywhere. I also vanquished a nemesis bird, Hooded Oriole! That felt great to get off my shoulders

Hooded Oriole

.On my final day I went to Saguaro National Park. With just a few hours to kill I didn't have time to go back to Madera Canyon, and I also wanted to tick Saguaro off of my national park list. I did a loop involving Mica View, and found it very pleasant. The park was established to protect the Saguaro "forest", and I could see why. The desert gets way too much hate, and the park was really pretty. The birding wasn't bad either. I cleaned up on some highly desired targets like Rufous-winged Sparrow and Black-tailed Gnatcatcher. A Lesser Nighthawk flew past me on the drive in broad daylight. Unsurprisingly it got sweltering after the sun went up, but it wasn't bad at all in the morning. Mica View was great for walking and birding, and Saguaro overall is a great urban national park. 

Saguaro forest

Rufous-winged Sparrow

Leaving Arizona was depressing because I had such a fantastic time. I wanted to sample the area and I found a lot of places that I like, and hopefully I will be back very soon. When I do I want to try the Chiricahuas or the Peloncillos in New Mexico. My high expectations were exceeded, and I can't wait to take some non-birders here next!

Pyrrhuloxia

SE Arizona Part II

 How do you follow up the best birding day you've ever had? Of course, you try to follow it up with an even better day which is quite hard to do, but Miller Canyon gave me a chance to beat the prior day. Miller Canyon is also in the Huachucas and is closer to Mexico than Ramsey Canyon. It is also a very reliable spot for the Mexican subspecies of Spotted Owl, which is a prime candidate for a split in the future. In addition, Beatty's Guest Ranch is the only place in the country where you can find White-eared Hummingbird.

Black-throated Gray Warbler

I'll say it right off the bat: this morning was pretty disappointing. It was hotter than I thought because I was at a lower elevation, I was tired from the previous day, and I was SORE. It hurt to put a backpack on and look up with my sore neck, and my legs ached. I was also stressed about my afternoon plans, more on that in a bit. I was moving pretty slow. Still, there were awesome birds. My first lifer was a Black-throated Gray Warbler, which exceeded expectations. It was extremely cooperative. But after about 10 minutes on the trails things got eerily quiet. A predator was around. I quickly saw it and scared it. It was a Northern Goshawk! This was the only place I could expect to find one, so to get one in the first 30 minutes was really motivating. I saw it first in the forest and then it flew overhead. As is soared the woods came back to life.

Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers move fast, I'm just glad I got this picture

The Miller Canyon Trail is a beating, and I wasn't on it for long. It goes along a creek and like many other birders I'm sure I missed a quetzal or another insane bird by chickening out once things got hard, but I had a lot to try to accomplish today. Elegant Trogon had moved up to #1 ABA lifer after I got Red-faced Warbler, and Buff-breasted Flycatcher was my #2. This was one of the few places I could expect the latter in the United States, and this was my primary target.

Comforting

I could have sworn that I saw one! I was 99% sure, and after 30 minutes of watching I couldn't get a definite look at it as it was flying back and forth between tall trees. I desperately wanted to count it, but I didn't feel right doing it since I didn't confirm it. I was in this situation in the past with my lifer Painted Redstart in Big Bend in 2017 and once I saw it again later that year I felt way more comfortable ticking it. I had to find a way to confidently see it. 

Male Broad-billed Hummingbird

But I continued on to the spot where Spotted Owl is reliable, but no one had seen it that day. I knew my chances were slim since I am an awful owler, but I did great looks at Red-faced Warbler and Hepatic and Western Tanager. This is where things got stressful, I knew a place for automatic Buff-breasted Flycatcher but it was supposedly a very tough drive, but I also wanted to get to Patagonia to look for desert birds. Would I have enough time and was it worth it? I decided to gamble it.

I got out of the canyon rather quickly going downhill, and was greeted by a pair of cooperative Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers. A birder on the way up encouraged me to try the drive up Carr Canyon, so I decided that was what I was going to do after looking at the hummingbird feeders at Beatty's.

Broad-tailed Hummingbird

I arrived at the feeder station on the way to my car and watched an aerial show of squeaking hummingbirds. Broad-billed, Rivoli's, Anna's, and Broad-taileds were dazzling in the air. I used to think hummingbirds were overrated until I saw this spectacle. I thought I had photographed a White-eared, but when I got to the car it was not one. That was probably the lowest point of the trip. Dipping on Spotted Owl and White-eared Hummingbird sucked, but I was out of time. I had to leave if I was to get to Carr Canyon and Paton's.

The female Broad-billed that bamboozled me

The low point did not last very long, and in fact everything started looking up. The drive to Carr Canyon has been said by some people to be the scariest birding drive they've ever done, and that it is a white-knuckler. The 7 mile road is unpaved, extremely steep, full of narrow one lane switchbacks, and there were no guardrails. I was terrified at the thought of it, but I had to do it. When I solo travel I really try to go out of my comfort zone both physically and mentally, whether it's going out in -40 weather in Minnesota, Sourdough Mountain in the Cascades (that was both physically and mentally brutal), or driving up a really scary road. Besides, if I want to bird in foreign countries I will have to learn to deal with tough roads.

Lil bit of a squeeze

While I usually had plenty of room, that's a steep drop

While a challenge, the drive was not that bad on the way up. I had only a few moments or nerves, and overall it was worth it. Carr Canyon's Reef Townsite Campground is a fantastic place to get high elevation birds without the crippling hike. I got to ditch my backpack, which made things so much easier. The weather was cool and made for an easy, scenic walk. I got to get very close to Grace's and Black-throated Gray Warbler, the former of which I only previously got a glimpse of in Ramsey Canyon before a runner scared it off. I sat down on a pine tree and soaked in amazing views of each, and then my Buff-breasted Flycatcher flew in to view. Elated is an understatement, and I could confirm that what I saw in Miller Canyon was also a buff breast. But now I could rest easy knowing what I saw. I stuck around for a little while longer and got Yellow-eyed Junco. My most important takeaway from this: I need to camp at Reef Townsite next time. The campground is beautiful and I think this place is poppin with birds in the morning. 

Yellow-eyed Junco

Grace's Warbler

With little daylight left there wasn't a ton of time to spend at Paton's, which was fine considering I already had Violet-crowned Hummingbird. Still, this was a good sight for desert birds that I didn't have a chance to go after yet. It also was a great spot for Thick-billed Kingbird.

Phainopepla

Black-chinned Hummingbird

The yard is just that and not very big, but there is a garden and it packs quite a punch, even at the end of day. Lifer Abert's Towhee and Violet-crowned Hummingbird stole the show, but I also finally got my lifer Brown-crested Flycatcher and Lucy's Warbler. The feeders around the ponds were especially productive, and even a Zone-tailed Hawk flew over! Although it was too late to get Thick-billed Kingbird, Cassin's was there.

Gambel's Quail

Despite being exhausted it was time to drive to Madera Canyon!

Abert's Towhee

SE Arizona Part 1

Southeast Arizona had been hyped up to me as the best birding location in the United States, and it's easy to see why. The Sky Islands in the mountains southeast of Tucson host a variety of unique species of animals that can be found nowhere else in the United States, and offer amazing hiking opportunities. This was my dream birding trip, and the various mountain ranges gave me a chance to see my most sought after ABA birds like Elegant Trogon and Red-faced Warbler.

Acorn Woodpecker

I flew out the Friday before Memorial Day to take advantage of an extra day off, as well as cooler weather. I was wrong about the last part, after talking with people from the area they told me that time of year is actually hotter, while it cools off later in the summer. But being in the mountains I didn't notice, and the weather was very pleasant.

I wanted to prioritize the location I was most hyped about, Ramsey Canyon. Located less 10 miles from the Mexican border, this is a magnet for birds that just barely extend their range into the US. The canyon is great to bird because you can work your way up to higher elevations, giving you an opportunity to see more birds that specialize at different elevations. I stayed right below the canyon entrance at the Ramsey Canyon Inn, a renowned B&B with great feeders.

Rivoli's Hummingbird. One of the only lifers I've seen before putting my glasses on

I woke up before breakfast to the sound of birds I was unfamiliar with. My room overlooked the garden, and I was taken aback at all of the hummingbird activity. World class birds were right outside my window! I sat in the garden for about 20 minutes before eating, and picked some amazing lifers. I couldn't pick a favorite. My hummingbird knowledge isn't that extensive since I usually only get to see Black-chinned and Ruby-throated, so these feeders blew my mind. Of course the massive Rivoli's Hummingbird had me slack-jawed, I was blown away by the Broad-billed Hummingbirds. The surprise of the day was the bird of the session, a Violet-crowned Hummingbird. They are very rare in the United States, with the only reliable place being Paton's in Patagonia. This was also one of my top 5 ABA birds. It was an omen for the day.

Violet-crowned Hummingbird

After breakfast I began my hike up Ramsey Canyon. The trail is about 9 miles round trip from the parking and is pretty strenuous, but I've learned that strenuous means good birds. There is no easy bird, you either have to hike, drive, or deal with some level of discomfort (looking at you, Great Gray Owl) to get. From the get go I was seeing lifers like Hutton's and Plumbeous Vireo, and I was immediately in awe at the scenery around me. The clear blue sky, oak trees shading the trail, and calls of different birds really sweeps you away. Along the creek I had beautiful Painted Redstarts, a good motivator before I began my ascent. 

Painted Redstart

For the most part the hike is very pleasant outside of a few stretches, and the beginning ascent got to me, although Arizona Woodpeckers offered the perfect justification for a respite. I reached an overlook to stop for soaring White-throated Swifts, a bird I rarely get to see, and to soak in the views of the Huachuca Mountains. A loud and intense squeak shocked me, it was a pair of Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers! These are another one of my most sought after ABA birds.

Arizona Woodpecker

Activity picked up big time as I the trail followed the creek. Cordilleran Flycatchers were everywhere, and as I gained more elevation the birds I came for started appearing. I am not good with calls, but I knew warblers were above me. My #1 target bird, Red-faced Warbler, was the first one I saw. WOW, it looks so much better in person than field guides, and that should tell you something. Some lifers are better seen in their habitat, and this was the perfect example. The canyon walls, pine and oak trees, and smells of the forest was the best backdrop you could ask for. 

Red-faced Warbler

Within a few minutes I also had Grace's Warbler, another highly sought after target, as well as the facemelting Western Tanager. The creek was extremely productive and it was probably the best 15 minutes of birding of my birding career so far. It also was the perfect motivator for the most challenging part of the hike. The trail is pretty flat for most of the hike, but the end is insanely difficult. You're pretty much going uphill at all times, and as a result it's very hard to bird, although I did hear a lifer Mexican Whip-poor-will calling during the day. Getting to the top was worth it with the views of the valley and the desert, but it was a killer. 

On my way down I stopped multiple times to admire Red-faced Warblers, which are way easier to see on the way down since you look at them from above as they perch down the slope. I got killer warbler neck after this first day, but it was worth it. My traps looked shredded and I got my #1 ABA bird.  I was also more aware of my surroundings, so I got to see some birds I would have missed, like Hermit Thrush. But the star of my trip down was a pair of Yellow-eyed Juncos, another range restricted bird in the US that you can only find at high elevations. It was an incredible last lifer in the canyon, and the hike out was very enjoyable as I got to focus way more on the scenery around me. It's the best birding in the lower 48 (only behind Kenai Fjords and Denali, which nothing can compete with). On one trail I had Rivoli's Hummingbird, Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher, Red-faced Warbler, and Yellow-eyed Junco. It doesn't get better than that in the United States.

I ended the day by going to San Pedro RCNA to poke around, getting one more lifer in Gila Woodpecker. It was dead at the end of the day but still nice to be out. My final minutes of birding involved listening for owls in front of the inn, which paid off with an Elf Owl! I went to bed as early as I could after birding over 10 miles, ready to get after it the next day.

San Diego

A few weeks ago I went out to San Diego to see my best friend since second grade, and you know we have to go birding when we travel somewhere. Due to work and this crazy thing called hanging with my boy, I didn't want to get out every day. I'm sure Daniel and Jacqueline needed a break from me, so I spent all day one day on a pelagic trip. 

The first and only pelagic I've done was out of this world, seeing storm-petrels, albatrosses, and shearwaters that I only thought I would get to see in field guides. Hyped was an understatement, but I was very nervous. Pelagic trips are long and if there are big swells you're in for a rough day. My Westport trip was supposedly the calmest seas ever, so I was prepping for a tough day. I arrived and checked in, only to be told that swells were 1-2 feet aka the lowest they can be. Let's go! All that worry over nothing...

The overcast morning was serene, and the it was way cooler than I expected, I'm very glad I turned around for my jacket on my way to the airport. Sea lion pups were frolicking in the water and Western Gulls were already following our boat, it was going to be a good day!

Western Gull

My first lifer was seen before we even hit the open ocean, an Elegant Tern, which would be very common throughout the day. Sooty Shearwaters appeared on the horizon, and we would see them throughout the day as well. Red-necked Phalaropes were everywhere, and my next lifer was a distant Black Storm-petrel off in the distance, one that I was very excited about.

Scripps's Murrelet

Eventually we got much better looks at the storm-petrel, but once we got further offshore the big kahuna hit. Murrelets flew across the bow in the distance, and despite being far away it was obvious what it was- SCRIPPS'S MURRELET! This was my most sought after bird of the trip, and it was one I have dreamed about for years. I used to know these as Xantus's Murrelet before it was split into Scripps's and Guadalupe, and it always struck me as a rare find in North America. It isn't, but back when my birding world was a triangle of Austin, Dallas, and Houston I thought I would never see these. And here I was, getting extremely cooperative views of one out of sight of land, almost across the border in Mexican waters. We would see tons of them, but each one was just as jaw dropping as the last.                                                     

As we got further offshore we started getting a following of birds. I really wanted to see the endangered Ashy Storm-petrel, but there aren't a ton of them and they can look very similar to Black. We would see very few of them, but I was able to get the ID down! 

We reached The Corner, our furthest point offshore, where Mexico meets San Diego and Los Angeles County. This was over 30 miles offshore, and we were looking hard for the extremely rare Cook's Petrel. We would miss the petrel, but we got a Sabine's Gull! I saw these in Washington and was stunned by them, and I went crazy over them again. What will it take to get one at White Rock?

Black Storm-petrel

At this point I was exhausted from all the excitement and I had to go lay down for a little bit, thinking it would be a little slow. Just as I was about to close my eyes, I heard "Northern Fulmar" over the speaker and shot up. Northern Fulmars are one of those seabirds that get me going, and they are very patient when it comes to boats. We got one within 20 feet of the boat, and I couldn't even use my binoculars on it. We thankfully stayed on it for 15 minutes before we decided to continue on. I laid down again, only to spring to my feet again when a Black-vented Shearwater, a lifer, began flying around the boat. That was the jolt I needed, no way could I sleep with so many good birds out!

Northern Fulmar

The rest of the day was mostly the same awesome birds, but as we were heading in we got one last surprise, one of my favorite alcids, a Rhinoceros Auklet! A rare find in this area, it gave us the energy we needed after being on the boat for over 10 hours to finish the day. You never know what you'll get on the ocean, and that was a hell of a way to finish the day. 

On Sunday I had a little free time and walked to Marston Canyon from Daniel's apartment. The weather was nasty and horrible for birding, but I was at lifer #498 and I had to get to 500! In the driving rain I would get it, Pacific Slope Flycatcher was 499 and Nuttall's Woodpecker was 500, just in time for me to rush off to lunch and get out of the rain. Marston Canyon has a ton of birding potential, the weather just sucked. Still, I had Warbling Vireo, Anna's Hummingbird, and an Allen's Hummingbird in such a short time. I also gained a new nemesis- Hooded Oriole. I can't find that bird anywhere, despite being in perfect habitat for it.

A pod of Rizzo's Dolphins, a rare find